“The New Look” delves into Coco Chanel’s and Christian Dior’s history

Some individuals enjoy name recognition even though biographical details may not be well known. This occurred to me as I watched the series “The New Look” which informatively and compellingly chronicles haute couture icons Christian Dior and Coco Chanel during and briefly after the WWII Nazi occupation of Paris. Poetic license is taken, but confirmed biographical details are, nevertheless, significant.

In essence, Chanel is an egotistical, Machiavellian manipulator of friends and foes. Admirably, she closes her shop to preclude designing for the Nazis. Appallingly, Chanel becomes involved with a Nazi lover hoping to gain freedom for her nephew Andre, unaware of her scheming. Further, Chanel lies, deceives, and conspires to regain her signature perfume from the Wertheimers while also betraying her best friend, Elsa.

By contrast, in the employ of Lucien Lelong, Christian Dior reluctantly designs for Nazi wives and romantic partners. Meantime, financially and emotionally, he supports his sister Catherine, arrested for her devotion to and work for the French resistance. Throughout the time period, Dior struggles painfully to learn of Catherine’s fate while also resisting encouragement from Marcel Boussac who wants to finance a Dior fashion house.

The multifaceted plot with numerous subplots requires attention, which I loved providing. The production values are eye-catching in the locations and the design details. Most notable, the sterling group of actors delivers magnificent performances. Juliette Binoche expresses an array of emotions as Coco Chanel, from seething to vicious anger, from sweetness to deceit. As Christian Dior, Ben Mendelsohn communicates Dior’s pain and struggles to follow his conscience, support his sister, and ensure survival for both. The inimitable John Malkovich plays Lucien Lelong, Dior’s original employer and President of Couture, a role that will put Lelong and Dior on a collision course.
   
A who’s who of first-rate supporting actors include: Emily Mortimer as Elsa Lombardi, Chanel’s friend enmeshed in a turbulent relationship with her. Claes Bang as Nazi spy Hans Günther von Dincklage, called Spatz. Maisie Williams is Dior’s sister Catherine, and Glenn Close as Carmel Snow will decide who earns the coveted “The New Look” designation for their designs.   A second season is in development. The ten episodes of “The New Look’s” first season of stream on Apple TV+.